Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
